Sushi ace Mori Onodera makes a spectacular return with Morihiro in Atwater Village
, the restaurant perched in the farthest and highest corner of the garish Hollywood & Highland shopping center. The food was spectacular, even if the location felt odd to the point of fiction.
Cold from a carryout box, the rice was good. Being able to once again eat it freshly cooked as intended, though, is utterly life-affirming.Diners choose from among three tiers at the restaurant. Four-course meals, served at one of the room’s seven tables, range from $65 to $100, depending on the amount of sushi. They include small appetizers — likely pickles, a square of homemade tofu and other daily whims — with miso soup and a small dessert. A $45 version centers around three sushi rolls.
Then the procession of nigiri began. I took a picture of the silvery saba, sliced to evoke a serpent’s tail slithering onto its mottled plate.
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