Behind her incredible hand-beaded silks is a desire to support and honor communities of craftspeople.
"My grandmother would make her own sarees. She would cut flowers from her garden, pick out the colors, and then she would give them to her weaver friends who were there in the community. Then the money would go back to the person who has done all the hard work."
A fascination with this harmonious exchange with the artisan community encouraged Pemmaraju to study fine arts in college and pursue a career in fashion, working at companies like Tommy Hilfiger. Then, in 2005, Pemmaraju moved to Australia and got a master's degree in fashion and textiles; when studying supply chains, she realized that while many fashion brands view India as a manufacturing hub, they don't acknowledge the power of the artisans responsible for it.
Pemmaraju's first collection came to life at Sydney Fashion Week in 2012, where she worked closely with Australian artists to design a 26-look range inspired by Indigenous art. She then called on Indian craftspeople to print, cut and sew each piece. "Everything was made with 100% sustainable fibers, so in cotton and linen," she says. "I had that vision since the time I started that I would not use any unnatural fibers or any unnatural weave and try to support hand skills, especially with artisans who can hand-weave textiles, which is just so luxurious."
Pemmaraju didn't have trouble building her network of artisans because she speaks all the local languages. Plus, her mother already had established relationships with many handweavers. "We have 50 houses who are weaving — it's not like a set factory, because weavers are in their own houses, so they don't have to come out of their own secure life," she says.
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