Ruth Carter has won the Oscar for Best Costume Design for her work in “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever.” Throughout her career, Carter has created visions of black identity, past and future, dstfelix wrote, in 2018.
Ryan Coogler’s “Black Panther” is a rare thing: a big-budget superhero movie that is unabashedly serious about great clothes. The film’s costume designer, Ruth E. Carter, evoked the fictional African kingdom of Wakanda by melding sci-fi with global fashion history, drawing influence from sources including the color symbolism of the Maasai people, samurai armor, and the jewelry of Ndebele women.
Carter, who was raised by her mother in Springfield, Massachusetts, briefly considered acting but turned to costume design as a student at Hampton University. After working at the Santa Fe Opera, she moved to Los Angeles and took jobs on theatre productions and at a dance studio. One evening, she met a young filmmaker named Spike Lee. In 1987, he gave Carter her first film job—on his second feature, “School Daze,” a “West Side Story”-inflected musical set at a historically black college.
Carter has long associations with a number of great black actors. She previously outfitted Angela Bassett as Dr. Betty Shabazz, in “Malcolm X,” and as Tina Turner, in Brian Gibson’s “What’s Love Got to Do with It.” For that film, one of Carter’s brothers showed her how to make screen grabs from a VHS tape of Turner singing “Proud Mary,” so that she could zoom in and count the layers of beading on her iconic dress.
For the Tina Turner bio-pic “What’s Love Got to Do with It,” Carter hired a beader to help her replicate Turner’s golden “Proud Mary” dress. Carter made the dress shorter than the one Turner actually wore, to lend Angela Bassett, the actress who played the role, Turner’s famously long-legged appearance.
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