Sacai's Chitose Abe worked with artist Hank Willis Thomas for a collection that speaks profoundly to the cultural moment.
Peace and love in demonstrative sartorial expression. That was Chitose Abe’s approach for her Sacai men’s spring and women’s resort collections, which she designed and presented together via video conference from her Tokyo atelier.
Yet Abe is the opposite of a linear thinker. In the pictures she sent in advance of the appointment, the bold uppercase rendering of “LOVE OVER RULES” that Thomas created for her use was nowhere to be seen. Rather, Abe revealed it during the appointment. Instead of hitting viewers in the face with Thomas’ provocative positive thinking, Abe chose to feature the words on the insides of jackets which, happily, are reversible.
Profound in sentiment, Thomas’ powerful artwork served a clear fashion purpose as well, allowing Abe to delve into her archive and come away with something new. Although the collections feature pulled-together, full looks, her archival sojourn brought to mind her early-career focus on tops. Perhaps in a nod to the COVID-19-era, video-meeting approach to getting dressed, she thus highlighted those pieces here, including a number of highly decorative yet casual men’s jackets and shirts.
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