The Sacai pre-fall 2023 collection is here. View every look:
is a slow burn that eventually becomes enthralling: by the finale it’s borderline mind-altering. But boy, does it take time to get going. So it was kind of appropriate that this-inspired Sacai collection—one of Chitose Abe’s most fascinating menswear missions ever—also took way too long to take off. This was because a certain celebrity fashion tourist was late . The show was held for 45 minutes, and still he didn’t arrive. Disrespect.
The inky blackness of space inflected a Catholically black series of looks whose severity contrasted with the disruption to come. The transformation was signaled by a moonrise of multi-color degradé layers in knits that gradually supplanted the blackness and signaled the experimentation ahead. Arguably that experimentation’s high point was the series of looks created with Moncler—an old co-creator with whom Sacai is reuniting for its 70th anniversary—that we saw close to the end.
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