San Antonio’s Krazy Katsu goes way over the top with fried chicken sandwiches

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San Antonio’s Krazy Katsu goes way over the top with fried chicken sandwiches
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With spice levels from mellow to hell-no, this converted boxcar near Olmos Park channels...

There’s a lot to love at Krazy Katsu. And just like love, it’s complicated.

Nobody complains about a sandwich being too big, do they? Especially when that sandwich costs as much as a dinner entree at $15-$17 all by itself. But when is the bread just for show, just a technicality, when the reality is that maybe you get a few bites before the whole thing slides away? Even Krazy Katsu’s plus-size Hawaiian roll is like a shower cap on an elephant, no sanctuary from the hot mess all around it.

I say “hot mess” with affection. The chicken was fried to a perfect mahogany landscape of crunchy peaks and valleys with a juicy alabaster core every time, and the layering of flavors gave each sandwich in this report its own clear-cut character. I’m just saying that “sandwich” is a loose term here. Maybe “impolite napkin hog” or “first-date faux paus.” Or maybe a sandwich best enjoyed with a tray underneath it and a fork at the ready.

With all that said about being sloppy, why not go all the way? The Deebo added thick-cut smoky bacon to the mix, crowned by a big scoop of macaroni and cheese made with short tubes of ditalini pasta that hoarded the lush three-cheese sauce like cheat-day gold. The Original Katsu Sandwich at Krazy Katsu at The Yard near Olmos Park includes panko-breaded fried chicken, pickles and spicy aioli. The menu also includes a frozen margarita with mango.When it’s mostly just the chicken and the bun, you’ve gotta do something to one-up Chick-fil-A. The Original Katsu Sandwich one-upped, two-upped and then went beyond with better chicken, more pickles and something called Kung-Fu sauce, a creamy aioli with just enough spice to give it some personality and a tan.

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