Sohla El-Waylly's week included eating biscuits, drinking her first Vietnamese egg coffee, and making cheddar-chipotle onion soup with hot dogs. GrubDiet
Sohla El-Waylly conjuring some of her faves. Illustration: Ryan Inzana It turns out quitting Bon Appétit’s once-thriving Test Kitchen videos was a great career move for Sohla El-Waylly. Last week, she launched a new series, Stump Sohla, with Andrew Rea of Binging With Babish. “I actually really like game shows from the ’60s,” she says of inspiration for the show, in which she spins a wheel that determines what she’ll be cooking.
He brought a dozen cardamom-sugar-dusted doughnuts filled with the last of summer’s rhubarb, French apple turnovers sweetened with earthy jaggery, and coconut mochi filled with alphonso-mango purée. Priya brought the wine while I provided the hand sanitizer. It’s our favorite weekend thing. We usually just hang out at home; we might walk the dogs. I find it really comforting to have this really elaborate charcuterie board on the kitchen counter that you can just walk by and pick up crackers all day.
I like noodle soup, but I mostly want the broth. I guess noodles are kind of unwieldy. I like neat little bites. I don’t slurp. I like to pull out a noodle, put it in my spoon, put a little broth in there, put a little meat and whatever else, and then have a bite. So it takes a long time. And if you have your noodles like that, you’ll notice that the ratio is always too many noodles, the way people plate it. Because everyone else slurps.
Growing up, Bengali cuisine uses mostly oily fish, so I think the No. 1 fish we had was shad. Shad and mackerel and catfish. I feel like those are all hard to find. Sardines come close to the same oiliness. I wanted to put catfish in the cookbook I’m working on, and as soon as the editor saw that, she called me and said no. She says, “No one cooks catfish. Make it chicken.”
My husband and I met at the Culinary Institute of America, and there was really nothing there in Hyde Park. But there was a really good grocery store next to us, and they had a huge cheese selection. There wasn’t anything else to do, so we ate a lot of cheese and kind of stuck with it. Basically our activity was: We would pick out a different cheese every week and get to know it. We had a class assignment where we each had to talk about some cheese.
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