Crispy, sweet and spicy, Yerushalmi kugel is a delicious Hanukkah side that's made with pantry staples.
My memories of that time are murky — there was a lot of snow in the winter where I grew up in what is now St. Petersburg, Russia — but what I recall keenly is that I got sick. A lot.
My colds, flus and whatever else I brought home were accompanied by a complete loss of appetite. My mom and grandmother would make me broth and serve it with crackers, but like many Old World parents, they worried about their too-skinny kid wasting away, so they tried to entice me with food that was a sure siren call. Enter buttered pasta sprinkled with so much sugar, it was practically candy.
The dish was Yerushalmi kugel and it was a delight: oily, crunchy and sweet, with an assertive peppery kick that made my eyes water. I quickly returned for another piece, and then another. The sugary noodles immediately transported me back to my childhood, but these had a more complex taste and a welcome depth of flavor.
You probably have the ingredients on hand to make this. You’ll need noodles — thin egg ones are traditional, but I’ve used spaghetti in a pinch and quite enjoy the long noodly heap they create — as well as eggs, oil, sugar, salt and black pepper.You melt the sugar in the oil and boil the noodles until al dente. Then, the pasta and oily-sugary slurry are tossed together and allowed to cool before the eggs, salt and pepper are added . That generous pinch of salt offsets the sweetness.
The mixture is tucked into a baking dish and an hour later, your kugel is done.
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