Spring in Stinkytown

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Spring in Stinkytown
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“Bus exhaust, hot garbage, clove cigarettes, Axe cologne.” Nick Paumgarten describes the scent of Manhattan after a winter thaw.

Last Monday morning, anyone around town who stepped outside expecting either a loamy first whiff of spring or some more familiar indigenous reek discovered instead the faint but unmistakable smell of woodsmoke. Not burning-building woodsmokiness, which in these parts, thanks to the alacrity of the fire department, typically comes in the dismal, water-soaked variety, but real, woodsy woodsmokiness. Campfires. The air was thick and kind of yellow.

This is the beginning of smelly season. Post-thaw, olfactory New York springs to life. The freeze this year was a long, hard one, by mid-Atlantic standards, and so one predicts an abrupt release. In the parks, the dogs are going bonkers, and even humans can pick up on the residual scent of the turds that dog owners somehow felt the snow absolved them from having to scoop up.

“The people, they really had to think about it,” he said last week, on the phone from Belgium. “They were thinking for two or three minutes before they could answer. It’s very strange that people don’t know the smell of their own city. People don’t know how to smell anymore.”

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