Popular gastronomy seems to come in two extreme flavors these days. At one end of the chicly underdressed table is the kind of easy-breezy, culturally scattered, make-it-your-own casual dining epit…
’s handsome, diverting documentary presents it as a self-styled ivory tower, to which a gaggle of wide-eyed junior chefs annually struggle to gain access, yet there’s as much bemusement as awe in its gaze.
“The pictures are beautiful, but is it food?” muses young Korean chef Kim as he pages through the Mugaritz cookbook.
The plucky, quietly charismatic Kim hopes to be a “last warrior standing” as other “stagiaires” prove unable to take the heat in this pretty clinical kitchen: Audiences accustomed to the shrill theatrics of reality shows like Gordon Ramsay’s “Kitchen Nightmares” may be surprised by the depiction of a work environment in which pressure is applied in quieter, more tacit but still unnerving ways.
At just 78 minutes, this bustling, absorbing doc hasn’t quite enough time to entirely draw us into the lives and perspectives of its likable human subjects: We’re given sketched-in backgrounds and familial food histories, but their personalities remain somewhat elusive. A handful of loose, good-humoured scenes depicting their off-duty socializing give the film some oxygen.
While some thrive within Mugaritz’s chilly strictures, others find the internship at least affirms their opposite culinary identity: One can easily identify with the chef who leaves vowing to pursue a career in “casual French cuisine.
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