Do the flavors of large-batch dishes improve with time? Kenji did some testing to find out.
So reheating is not what causes changes in soups and stews, if those changes exist.Testing the effects of aging was a little more difficult. My initial thought was to simply make multiple batches of soup and stews. I'd make one batch on Monday, store it in the fridge, then make a second batch on Thursday and serve it alongside Monday's batch. The problem, of course, is that the stew I'm making on Thursday isthe same stew I made on Monday.
I considered a second option: make a single batch of stew on Monday, freeze half of it, then thaw that half on Thursday and taste them side by side. There are problems here, too: Freezing can alter the texture of meat and vegetables, and it can also break emulsions, turning a smooth, luscious sauce grainy or greasy. This method also presupposes that whatever may be happening to stew as it ages in the fridge completely halts in the freezer.
Neither method is perfect, but between the two of them, I figured I could get some answers. After a single round of testing, I had no real answers. It was very difficult to tell any difference. A couple of subsequent tests, with even more careful control over the cooking process, revealed some minor differences between the fresh and aged stews and soup.
With the stew, the beef itself tasted nearly identical. The carrots, potatoes, and onions did seem to take on a little more flavor from the broth and become a little sweeter, but it was a subtle difference. I'd also be hard-pressed to tell you if it was necessarily. With the tomato soup, the aged soup again tasted a little bit sweeter, but it had lost some of the fresh brightness of a just-made pot. Was one better than the other? I'd give a very slight edge to the older batch.
The only case in which there was a noticeable difference was with the chili, where the older batches were distinctly more rounded and mellow in flavor. This isn't a good thing in chili, where I expect brightness and heat to stand up to the roasted flavor of the dried chilies and the richness of the thick stew.Okay, so there are some minor differences.
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