Castacán is the Yucatecan version of crispy pork belly. These tacos are crisped up on a griddle, then topped with shredded cheese.
Slow-cooking the pork belly in the oven tenderizes it while infusing it with flavor from the aromatics.Topping the pork with shredded cheese while it's on the griddle gives the cheese a chance to brown and crisp, lending an extra dimension of nutty flavor and texture to the finished taco.
On our third day in the Yucatecan capital of Mérida, my wife and I took a long early-morning walk through the hot Spanish colonial streets to sidle up to the bar at , one of the city's busiest taco stands. There were over 20 different taco fillings on display in ceramic bowls the size of dinner plates, which busy cooks would refill as they emptied out.
As the cheese melted, it oozed into the cracks and spaces between the meat, binding the bits of pork belly together and browning where it came in contact with the pan. Eventually, the cook flipped the whole thing over to get direct cheese-on-cómal contact, letting it sizzle until the cheese browned and crisped, lending an extra dimension of nutty browned flavor and crisp texture to the finished taco. It was revelatory, and, as soon as I got home, I started working on a recipe for myself.
It's not traditional, but I decided to add a couple of aromatics to the oil as well, just for another layer of flavor. Garlic, cloves, cinnamon, and orange are typical flavors of the region and work well. When it's covered and cooked in a moderate, 275°F oven, it takes about five hours for the connective tissue in the pork to break down and for the meat to fully tenderize.
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