Rewarding recipes that require a well-stocked cupboard, technical prowess, and a lot of patience
How far would you go to protect a recipe for fried chicken? If you set up Bao, a restaurant in Soho, central London, infamous for its patient queue of would-be diners, you might just surprise yourself. In the original restaurant’s early days, the three founders — Erchen Chang and siblings Wai Ting Chung and Shing Tat Chung — would suit up in gloves, masks and lab coats to mix the spices themselves, ensuring the recipe wasn’t leaked.
Another reason to still pop in? These dishes — which include all current and former menu items, plus a few surprises — are not exactly the stuff of mindless midweek suppers. With a laugh that hides a warning, Shing Tat calls the recipes “labour intensive”. They require a very well-stocked cupboard, technical prowess, and a lot of patience. The drinks, all pleasingly retro, require a mastery of foams.
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