Cooking during quarantine has freed us to experiment and improvise rather than defer to cookbooks, writes KitchenBee
By Bee Wilson Aug. 13, 2020 5:55 pm ET On a scorching hot day last week, I decided to make a cooling salad of roasted figs and onions with mint and green leaves, a recipe that caught my eye in the lovely new cookbook “Falastin” by Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley. After I started, I realized that I had only half as many fresh figs as I needed. I also didn’t have the radicchio or walnuts or goat’s cheese that the recipe stipulated.
During our pre-Covid-19 lives of comparative freedom and abundance, many home cooks got in the habit of obediently following written recipes to the letter, even when they asked us to buy all kinds of fancy and very specific ingredients that might not be in season. Cooking from pantry stores during quarantine, we were forced to adapt in the kitchen and start thinking more flexibly.
In the process of all this improvising, many cooks have made the happy discovery that recipes are an interactive form of writing in which the reader is also allowed to speak. One of my favorite things about reading old cookbooks is finding the marginal notes and scribbles of the cook who originally owned the book.
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