Expanding the definition of what American food is, outside of the hot dog-hamburger-apple pie trifecta, is a never-ending task with no clear answer. The argument that a truly American food that exists outside of any extant immigrant influences is a tricky one to make, but the food that Americans now think of as classically American really did come from elsewhere. Padma Lakshmi’s latest endeavor, Taste the Nation (now streaming on Hulu), attempts to excavate the meaning of American food and in the process, makes an uneven argument in favor of assimilation.\n
“I think that everything the American cuisines is today is because of what the different cultures have brought to it,” she says in one episode. This statement is correct and also obvious. Instead of highlighting the lesser-known foods thatbecome entries in American cuisine by dint of exposure, her focus is largely to demonstrate how smoothly the existing culinary landscape has absorbed these iconic dishes.
But some of the more irksome cooking-cum-travel-show affectations remain, like in the fourth episode, which finds Lakshmi watching San Francisco chef Brandon Jew, proprietor of Michelin-starred restaurant Mister Jiu’s, cook a pared-down, beautifully fresh chop suey in a tent erected somewhere on Shao Shan Farms in Marin, California.
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