In kitchens across L.A., cooks adapt the Thanksgiving credo of “gather together with loved ones over fabulous food” to make dishes that speak to their own holidays past or influences from their family heritage.
When Thanksgiving rolls around each year, some things are certain: Turkeys will be roasted, potatoes will be mashed, and so many pumpkin pies will be baked on the big day. And while the tried-and-true Or someone brought an oddball dish one year, and now it has a forever place at the Thanksgiving table. It’s a dish that makes the holiday feel even more like home.
I spoke with six cooks in Los Angeles to get their essential holiday recipes — and the stories that inspired them. Some are classics — a bubbling, cheesy potato gratin or a browned, fragrant and elegant apple galette — while others are passed-down celebration dishes that fit the season, like an elaborate Palestinian upside-down chicken and rice dish or bronzed pheasants roasted under bacon.
These dishes are expressions of each cook, showing their conviviality at the holiday while also honoring past traditions that got them to where they are now. Without them, Thanksgiving just wouldn’t be the same.“For Thanksgiving, because I am from Oklahoma and all of my family is still there, I don’t always go back home, and I love having Friendsgiving in L.A. And, because I personally find turkey overwhelming to cook, I turn to roasting small birds.
Before L.A., I lived in Chicago after college, and my boss there, Michan, spent his childhood splitting his time between Dublin and Paris. Dinners at his house in the fall were always roasting small game and making pâté from the birds for the appetizer. Michan always made me feel welcome at his house in Chicago, and he and his wife opened my eyes to many types of cooking and also French wine for the first time. He was a mentor to me, not only as an architect but for opening my eyes to elevated cooking and entertaining. He was fascinated by my story and life journey.
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