Mennonite and Amish families in the Midwest are among the sole stewards of a precious yet fast-fading American food tradition.
Nancy Huber doesn’t feel the need to raise her voice. It carries clearly enough above the clank of the old cane press’s spinning shafts and rattling chains, which are currently wringing the juice out of sorghum stalks. But as I feed another bundle of stalks between the rolling metallic cylinders, I can make out her saying, “If your hand gets in there, you’re finished.” Sheave by sheave, I’m careful not to become some cautionary tale.
As I walk the rows with a sharpened stick stripping the leaves from each plant, I trail three Mennonite girls—children of one of the Huber sisters—and can scarcely keep up. The diminutive Nancy comes over and demonstrates the proper technique: With one swift up-and-down motion, she deftly and firmly severs each leaf from the stalk. “If you’re smart, you can sometimes do it all in one movement,” she says, twisting the cane so the leaves line up.
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