The ancient ways of natural wine are finding new fans in the Bay Area and beyond

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The ancient ways of natural wine are finding new fans in the Bay Area and beyond
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Generally, natural wine is made with hand-picked organic grapes that haven’t been sprayed with herbicides or pesticides. Once they’re crushed — sometimes by foot, the way they were crushed by ancie…

Interns at Pax Wines in Sebastopol, Calif., stomp organic grapes with their bare feet in large vats, pulling out the juice to start the fermentation process on Sept. 8, 2023. More wineries and wine bars dedicated exclusively to natural wine are opening in the U.S., with a focus on a back-to-basics approach, avoiding additives, pesticides and other manipulative techniques. Natural wine — which emphasizes sustainability and minimal processing — is seeing growing interest in the U.

But natural wine needs to overcome some hurdles that may be hampering its growth. Unlike organic wine — which must be government certified — natural wine has no set definition in the U.S. It’s not easy to find, since most natural wines don’t have the word “natural” on their labels. Interns at Pax Wines in Sebastopol, Calif., stomp organic grapes with their bare feet in large vats, pulling out the juice to start the fermentation process on Sept. 8, 2023. More wineries and wine bars dedicated exclusively to natural wine are opening in the U.S., with a focus on a back-to-basics approach, avoiding additives, pesticides and other manipulative techniques.

A worker watches organic grapes being poured into storage containers inside Pax Wines in Sebastopol, Calif., on Sept. 8, 2023. More wineries and wine bars dedicated exclusively to natural wine are opening in the U.S., with a focus on a back-to-basics approach, avoiding additives, pesticides and other manipulative techniques. Keller, who has a degree in biochemistry, started out working for a big winemaker in California.

Erin Coburn, owner of the minimo wine shop in Oakland, Calif., pours a natural wine at her tasting bar on Sept. 7, 2023. More wineries and wine bars dedicated exclusively to natural wine are opening in the U.S., with a focus on a back-to-basics approach, avoiding additives, pesticides and other manipulative techniques.

Some in the industry would like to see standards adopted for natural wine. That’s what happened in France, where the wine industry approved the “vin method nature” label and certification process in 2020. More than 430 vintages have used the label since then, according to the Union for the Defense of Natural Wines.

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