There are tricks to the ice cream cake trade—and taraobrady shared them with us.
. Still, I am unoffended when my sons routinely request the frozen version—one made with ice cream and often no cake at all. It started 10 years ago when the lads saw a television commercial complete with beauty shots and slow pans of a Valentine’s Day–appropriate heart-shaped ice cream cake. The voiceover declared that said cake was the best way to show one’s affection. The two consulted their dad, who could not deny the veracity of their findings.
It was the culmination of my decade of study in which I learned that ice cream cakes are just as much about layers of carbs and dairy as they are about art and logic.I subscribe to the idea that an ice cream cake requires if not cake, then at least some sort of carby base. Actual cake is not ideal for freezing as its open crumb structure makes it susceptible to drying out.
For cakes, my general rule is 1 to 1 1/2 cups of add-ins per quart of ice cream—with the low end of the range advisable for liquid add-ins and the high for solid ones. Want a fruit swirl? Well-stirred jam, thinned by a squeeze of lemon juice if necessary, is the easiest route. But you can also make your own fruit sauce by cooking fruit until it breaks down and reduces. If you do this, be generous with the sugar, not only because sweetness dulls when frozen, but also because a higher sugar concentration lowers the freezing point of the remaining water in the sauce, thus inhibiting those pesky shards.
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