Spicy cold Sichuan noodles are easier to make at home — and control the spice — than you think.
I love spicy food — but my stomach does not. Still, at a recent meal at Mian in Alhambra, I had the Sichuan cold noodles, mounded high and icy cold, swimming in a punchy broth and topped with loads of chile paste, peanuts and scallions. My friends ordered them with a chile heat level of 3 out of 5. I didn’t want to be the odd man out, so I did as well, and paid for it in more ways than one.
I learned quickly that recipes calling for readily available tahini were doing the dish a disservice. Chinese sesame paste, the kind used to give the noodles their richness, is made with toasted sesame seeds; tahini is made with untoasted sesame. Once I figured that out, the whole recipe clicked into place. When mixed with equal parts black vinegar and chile crisp, the sesame paste rounds out the sharpness of the vinegar and tames the heat of the chile.
In a large bowl, prepare an ice bath. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook, stirring, until al dente, about 4 minutes. Immediately drain the noodles in a colander, then plunge them into the ice bath to stop them from cooking further. Stir them briefly until cool to the touch, then immediately drain again in the colander and shake off any excess water. While the noodles drain, dry and reserve the large bowl.
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