Shania Twain, rain, fish fragrant beef, moo krob, and assorted grills — here are the best things we ate this week
A method for the embrace of winter: Watch amateur fireworks. Do something new and scary to your hair. Wash the mounting pile of veg box roots and invent a pasta sauce. Try Horlicks. Remember that it does not, in fact, taste like the inside of a Malteser. Dig out your long warm coat: find it riddled with a new landscape of uneven holes and throw it into the bin in the rain. Get the train to Walthamstow Central and head for the duck egg blue caress of Etles Uyghur. Share lamb skewers.
But I’m leaving London for a bit and this might be the last time I’ll eat at Singburi for a while so I’m plumping for a mainstay on the ever-changing specials board. I’ve eaten moo krob countless times, with countless different people. It’s a seasoning or punctuation for the entire meal: to be plucked at sporadically like popcorn or crisps.
Two waiters flanked the arrabbiata, coaxing it towards me: one for the plate, the other for the pepper mill. A careful passage for an angry dish. The thirty tubes, nestled together in their spiky red swamp, were enough to pierce through my brain chemistry. They were enough to make me sit up, look up, and notice the rich bread disguised as celestial towers overhead.
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