We explore the simple pleasures of The Commerce Inn, Rita Sodi and Jody Williams’ perfectly crafted, Shaker-inspired West Village tavern
American cuisine might be first associated with the indulgent heartiness of, let’s say, a juicy burger slathered in cheese, and then next perhaps with the newfangled inventiveness that comes with that burger’s plant-based, lab-developed sibling. But if we were to delve back into the true origins of American food, the menu at The Commerce Inn, an early American tavern located in New York City’s West Village, is more likely to be a closer match.
A staff member with crates of oyster shells in the restaurant’s entrance, featuring stoolsby Sawyer Made and a traditional maple peg rail ‘Rita and I have been interested in Shaker history, and collecting old cookbooks and manuscripts, so we were really intrigued by this idea of lost recipes,’ says Williams. ‘For about a decade, we had an idea to do a place, like an old New York tavern with lots of Shaker influences in the design and menu, while [also nodding to] farm-to- table and the history of New York. It all came together with this location.
‘When people hear Shaker, many don’t understand what that is. Part of the attraction to delve into this early American tradition was to shake off the excess and be free of all the clichés – it was so refreshing tous,’ she continues. ‘We are so interested as chefs, restaurateurs, designers to find old things and make them new again.
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