Joe Nguyen is a digital strategist for The Denver Post. Previously he was the online prep sports editor. Prior to that, he covered Adams County and Aurora in the YourHub section. He has previously covered Colorado’s Asian-American communities as editor for Asian Avenue magazine and AsiaXpress.com.
A mortadella sandwich with ricotta and pistachio pesto. A no-knead, no-fail dough that requires neither patience nor planning turns out delicious focaccia. Food styled by Monica Pierini. Making yeasted bread is one of the few acts of cooking where ingredients actually come to life. Dough expands in size and flavor when yeast feast on sugar to then release carbon dioxide gas.
In achieving something similar but for home kitchens and cooks of all skill levels, I worried about veering from tradition and asked my friend Gabriele Stabile if change was OK. His family is originally from Sicily, but he grew up in Rome, where he now lives. That’s the kind of focaccia the chef Chad Colby serves at his restaurant Antico Nuovo in Los Angeles. Tottering over five inches tall, the balloon-like rounds have shatteringly thin, crisp crusts glistening with oil. Having worked with high-hydration dough since the early 2000s, Colby has pushed the limits of weightlessness with his phenomenal bread, which he describes as “Ligurian-style focaccia meets olive oil doughnut.
A food processor turned out to be the best substitute for folding. The structure in bread dough comes from gluten, which forms when the proteins in flour mix with water and break apart, then re-form in a strong network. The sharp, whizzing blade of a processor does that in a minute. The sandwich still tastes good with bakery-bought focaccia or even ciabatta refreshed in a toaster oven, but it becomes something else on homemade bread.When you inhale the breath of the freshly baked focaccia, whatever feels stuck in life comes unstuck, if only for that moment. Even though this dough requires very little work, simply witnessing it swell with life makes change feel possible, maybe even beautiful.This is possibly the fastest start-to-finish yeasted bread you can make.
2. If the focaccia isn’t freshly baked, toast lightly to warm but not crisp. Split each square in half through the fluffy middles.
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