Simply put, the mechanical watch is getting better on all fronts by marginal gains, inching into real-world practicability and sustainability.
late ’60s, even the most clairvoyant observer couldn’t have predicted the havoc about to be wrought upon Switzerland’s watch industry by quartz technology. So revolutionary, then devastating, was the arrival of the electronic wristwatch that the era is still referred to in Switzerland as the Quartz Crisis.
“This is a movement with purpose,” says Studer, who describes a five-year R&D process improving everything from the geometry of gear wheels to the efficiency of the winding system. “By defining a few elements and setting a new standard for them all, Calibre 400 addresses customers’ needs directly. It’s fit for any everyday situation.”
At Omega, which had already been rolling out its frictionless, lubricant-free Co-Axial escapement across its collections for several years, the Master Chronometer certification was simultaneously unveiled, overseen by Switzerland’s Federal Institute of Metrology . As well as improved chronometry, its big headline winner was 15,000 Gauss anti-magnetism—about 250 times more than the industry standard for anti-magnetic watches.
For instance, when Ulysse Nardin introduced ion-etched silicon as an alternative way to make the ticking escapement’s balance spring, anchor lever, or escape wheel in 2001—the parts most susceptible to magnetic interference—it seemed like a technology from the future; now it’s increasingly common practice.Similarly, Rolex’s Parachrom balance spring, introduced in 2005 , has given its watches significant advantages.
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