Jerk has a flavor that is as nuanced as its history.
I first sampled true jerk almost twelve years ago during a visit to Jamaica. I was making my way back from Runaway Bay to Kingston and stopped for lunch at one of Jamaica’s landmarks: Faith’s Pen. The brightly-colored food stalls at this roadside stop serve island classics like ackee and salt fish and cornmeal porridge. The air was thick with plumes of smoke emanating from oil-drums-turned-grills. The aroma was of fruit set ablaze.
Caribbean history tells us several stories about the origin of jerk. One holds that it was born from the enterprise of enslaved Africans who escaped to freedom to the mountainous interior of Jamaica. Known as Maroons, these individuals hunted wild pigs, and cooked the meat in smoldering pits buried in the earth so as to conceal their location. As fuel for their makeshift earthen ovens, they used the sweet wood of the pimento tree.
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