Costume designer Courtney Wheeler spills on all the inspiration behind the show's biggest style moments—including some you may have missed.
where the costume design isn't a wildly in-your-face spectacle every time the scene changes. It isn't evenwhere, for the last few seasons, catching moments of stealth wealth and unbranded luxury goods turned into a sport. It's a show about family and trauma and chefs and food and forgiveness, and among it all, fashion is the main character, the common denominator that threads it all together.
I have friends who are chefs who have great style, but I never really connected it to the industry until I started doing. Even within their uniforms, there's a way it hangs on their body and how they want to wear it. I love that. Especially the first season, we had the constraints of a uniform, but we get to bring people's personalities forward, in a way.When we first did the pilot, Cristina [Spiridakis and I] came in with a blueprint for the characters, and she came in with mood boards.
So when I tell you it comes from Chicago, it comes from the thrift shops out there, it comes from eBay, it comes from Etsy. We have people in New York. When I tell you it comes from everywhere, it truly comes from everywhere. Even Ebon [Moss-Bachrach], who plays Richie, loves eBay. That's his source for where he shops in his personal life. There’s this one shirt that we didn’t get to use this season that, trust, next season it’ll be on the top of the list.
I saw a report that searches for “The Bear sweater” spiked on Google after season two came out, referring, obviously, to that grey sweater of Carmy’s. Can you tell me about that piece? This is such a good story because it really means a lot for the show and means a lot for Chris Storer. But also, it was just a full circle moment. Syd’s pilot episode shirt is this beautiful Thom Browne embroidered shirt from Dover Street Market. Me and Cristina were shopping at Dover before we left for Chicago, and she came from one end of the store, and I came from the other end, but we were both honing in on that shirt.
In the beginning of the season we have a month or two of prep, and we do our preliminary shopping, talk to the actors, see where their heads are at, check in with them, and talk about their characters. One of the things that Ebon emailed me about was Richie in a suit, and we were talking about a black suit, and Ebon goes, Al Pacino in. That’s what Richie would do, 100%. That is Richie. These actors, especially Ebon, have such a handle on their characters, and he's always so thoughtful.
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