The best new places to eat in the city right now, including the return of a Trinidadian institution and a very slick new izakaya
The old ones are the best, some say. St. John — with institutions in Smithfield and Spitalfields — remains among London’s very best restaurants, for its inimitable sense of identity and style as much as what it puts on plates or in glasses.
The newest member of the family is now open in Marylebone and exists in the same utilitarian image — a sleek dining room of zinc bars and white washed walls where guests can order dishes like fried sea bass with braised fennel; deep-fried lozenges of Welsh rarebit “croquettes”; onion soup; cold roast mallard; barley, mushrooms, and Spenwood; and whiskey and shortbread. A menu for autumns and winters, and a restaurant for all seasons.
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