In the modeling industry, unless you ask to be paid, they won’t take the initiative to pay you.
It’s a question too often asked by models, who regularly have to wait, and wait, and wait — and wait — for payment for their work. The modeling world is notorious for the slowness of payment, not to mention what can be a lack of financial transparency on the part of modeling agencies.
As for how quickly models themselves are paid, the agencies claim any delay isn’t their fault. Like Uber drivers, models in the U.S.
She said some girls didn’t realize that even though an agency was sponsoring their visa they could switch to a different agency, which could sponsor them. “They have this held hostage feeling. ‘I can’t be released and I’m not being paid, and I’m basically doing free labor,'” she said. Often agencies will loan a model money and charge a fee, she said. “They charge these advances which have percentages on them. Instead of doing this advance, they can just pay you. They sort of create this debt hole. As a woman, you don’t feel empowered. You don’t have financial stability and you become susceptible to other grievances. Because you can’t protect yourself financially in a very large city where you’d like to have that protection for yourself.
Shahrik repeated that models are independent contractors. “They would love to think they’re employees, but they’re not. We help them find jobs and that’s it,” she said. As for the service fees that are charged, she said some are warranted, but others aren’t. “They said they can call you a car. That sometimes is covered by the client and sometimes it will come out of your pocket. You have to be aware of every single transaction. Everything that’s offered to you, you have to be skeptical and ask, ‘What is this? Is it coming out of my balance?’
Ivers noted that State will apply a service fee based on the rate that it is charging their customer. For example, the agency pays third-party vendors for technology it uses to keep the calendar straight. It has a portfolio system where it can have a dozen or more books, or unique portfolios, for a specific situation, whether it’s a denim-oriented project, bridal or swim. Consequently, the agency charges a digital/marketing fee. “We have all these systems that we pay for.
David Bonnouvrier, owner of DNA Model Management, said, “Given the highly visible nature of our industry, the negative actions of a few bad players always reflects badly on the good ones and the industry as a whole.” Damon Rutland, managing director of Nomad Mgmt, said that after a year-and-a-half ban , Nomad’s models are back to working at Pier 59. However, a spokeswoman for The Industry Model Mgmt said Nomad is still banned.
Pignatelli also alleged that some agencies over-charge their models and house them in over-crowded places. “The whole thing is unfortunately highly unprofessional and unregulated,” he said. “A huge part of management is managing expectations and explaining to models and also to parents about the business. There’s a big learning curve. It’s not like any other business. What we find is a lack of communication. For the most part, everything is explained in the contracts but neither models nor parents read them. When they read them they just don’t understand them. They just don’t get it,” he said.
“If they don’t have a lot of money, it’s not going to pay rent, [but] it will help them look great when they go to castings, and that makes a huge difference,” he contended. “They [modeling agencies] have total transparency. If a model signs a contract, reads the contract, negotiates points of the contract, and has an open dialogue, then there’s nothing to complain about.
While IMG officials declined to be interviewed, its IMG Models Protections Document says, “Our team ensures our clients are paid in a timely and fair manner. Models don’t have to ask to be paid. We pay models the full balance of what’s in their accounts twice per week and make their statements available. We don’t charge interest on advances. We work to ensure customers pay within 30 to 90 days.”
“Despite their power to control the models’ purse strings, agencies claim not to have a fiduciary obligation to the models they represent and often abuse their power. Models don’t always know how much they will be paid and what fees or expenses will be deducted from their paychecks,” she claimed. She noted that although models enter into fixed-term, exclusive contracts to their agencies, “the agencies claim they are under no obligation to promote the models they represent or book jobs for them. Their legal obligations to the models are through their contracts, but because the vast majority of models have little to no bargaining power, these contracts tend to be entirely one-sided in favor of the agencies,” she said.
She added that models with questions or concerns about any work-related problem can confidentially contact Model Alliance’s grievance reporting and advice service at Model Alliance Support. While the organization cannot provide legal advice, they can provide a referral to an attorney if needed. Additionally, the Department of Consumer and Worker Protection is a dedicated City resource for workplace questions and complaints.
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