'We had to switch from a volume-driven mindset to a price-driven one.'
Well, nearly two years in, the pandemic is still forcing chefs and restaurateurs to throw out their old playbooks and adjust on the fly in order to survive. Olmsted has ditched its a la carte menu to adopt a pre-fixe offering every night.
“Back in March 2020 we were forced to make a fast decision on the viability and future of Bell’s without any clue what was coming next,” Companion Hospitality CEO Greg Ryan says. “The initial drivers on this decision were balancing less guests in the dining room and making sure we were covering our staff’s healthcare. We had to switch from a volume-driven mindset to a price-driven one.” Along with the tasting menu came a set 20 percent service charge.
Tasting menus help address two key problems restaurants face right now: the labor crunch—made even worse by Omicron—and inflation that has increased food costs. “A tasting menu format foundationally allows us to run with a better budget, as we’re bringing in less variety of food which changes the cost of food overall,” Baxtrom says. Also, with a set menu, staff isn’t spending time prepping a la carte dishes on the chance they’ll be sold that night.
Other chefs have wrestled with the idea of making a switch, seeing the obvious benefits, but doubting if the change makes sense for them. “It will help make things more consistent—from an ordering and production perspective it makes sense,” DC-area chef-restaurateur Michael Rafidi saysTo some extent, Canlis and Olmsted agree, as they see the switch to tasting menus as a temporary measure. But Bell’s hasn’t looked back.
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