Seltzer is not only the drink of the decade. Seltzer is the entire mood of the 2010s
Feel the bubbles. Photo: Lumina Imaging/Getty Images Embrace the seltzer. Touch the bottle. Focus on it. The little sssszzhh that escapes when you twist open the cap. The bubbles that are sharp but still playful, like the touch of a kitten’s paw. A flavor that is not quite nothing, but also not quite something, like the void you have where your soul used to be. Maybe your seltzer tastes like a strawberry, or a lime, or a pamplemousse.
Even a coconut-flavored seltzer that actually tastes like sunscreen mixed with pool water managed to find fans this decade. The cans — always pastel, no matter which brand you choose — were made for Instagram before there even was an Instagram. It has a vague sort of wellness energy. It got the Letter of Recommendation treatment. In 2015, the Awl — then the blog of record for smart people who spend too much time online — published its official LaCroix rankings.
Still, it wasn’t just straight seltzer that boomed. The the 2010s were high times for all bubbles. The effervescent wine pet-nat was on the rise in 2013. The Aperol Spritz became the new king of cocktails. People added tonic water to espresso, and Manhattan Special paved the way for new-school coffee sodas like Keepers. Well-made highballs are just seltzer with some booze. Recess is seltzer, but CBD. Hard seltzer is seltzer, but hard.
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