'My ancestors had the wisdom to bring their survival with them. This recipe is an homage.'
Each of us develops a catalog of ingredients that our palates crave over and over again. It happens without us knowing it: Stories and memories shape those flavors for us, and give them importance in our lives.I was born in Kansas. My family arrived there in the early 1900s from the Deep South. The black-eyed pea proliferated in the South when enslaved people who secreted the seeds into the country planted them in that unknown soil.
I traveled to Senegal and Ghana, tasting similar preparations with regional differences. Each time, I slowly closed my eyes, overwhelmed by the time travel I was experiencing. I imagined my knowable and unknowable ancestors as they cultivated, harvested, cooked, and shared this beloved ingredient. My heart expanded five times over.
I remember arriving at those backyard gatherings as a child, seeing and smelling all the delicious dishes we were about to enjoy, but knowing the condiments were their own kind of special. The condiment platter is a family tradition I revere. Usually served on an ornately-designed vintage glass relish tray, the seemingly mundane accompaniments to the meal were transformed into something precious.
They say chowchow began as a collection of remnant produce that couldn’t be used in other dishes, so it became its own reclaimed relish. As you chop each vegetable, consider that origin: Making the most from the least. Creating abundance from scarcity.Photo by Joseph De Leo, Food Styling by Micah Marie Mortononce said, “When you’ve got 400 quarts of greens and gumbo soup canned for the winter, nobody can push you around or tell you what to do.” From experience, Ms.
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