“Everyone weaves their own pho story.'
, explaining the centrality of the famous rice noodle soup to the Vietnamese national identity. "Food has a story," she says. "If you cover the story as well as the food, that makes for a really rich package."
The family resettled in San Clemente, California, where there weren't places to get a bowl of pho, so Nguyen's mother started making it at home. A custom emerged: Nguyen's mother prepared the broth on Saturday, and the family ate the soup Sunday morning after getting home from mass. Though pho's exact origins are murky, "what's clear is that pho was created from cultures rubbing shoulders," Nguyen writes in the book's introduction. French colonists in what was then Indochina brought with them their culinary predilections, including a taste for beef. As the colonists ate roasts, local Vietnamese and Chinese cooks were left to figure out what to do with the bones—which they started turning into soup.
Whatever the provenance of the soup and its name, Nguyen said, it "came out of a strange set of colonial circumstances.
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