From dark to light, regular to sweet, soy sauce is much more than a condiment. So how do you figure out what’s what?
But it’s not — not by a long shot. This mahogany liquid is much more than a condiment, because the type and quality of soy sauce you use in a Chinese dish is as important as the kind of wine or butter you add to a French recipe. So, how do you figure out what’s what and which one is going to taste especially good?
Interestingly, the earliest soy sauces were created during the Zhou dynasty — about 2,500 years ago — out of fermented meat, sort of like ancient Rome’s fish sauce,. Experimentation led to happier and cheaper results when beans and grains were used instead of flesh, and from then on generations of Chinese families handed down their own carefully guarded secret recipes for their clan’s signature brews.
This holds equally true for soy sauce, because unless you know what you need and what’s out there, getting your hands on the good stuff poses all sorts of problems. Some can be found in Chinese grocery stores, and the rest are only available online. Some brands will be artisanal and natural, while others will not be worth your hard-earned dollar.
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