Pine needle pants? Cactus coat? Here's what you need to know about the fashion industry's buzziest 'ingredients'.
“Marimekko was really our first brand partner to advise us on what the fibre should be like and how we should even go about trying to create the first prototypes of it.” Saara Azbel, Marimekko’s sustainability manager, notes that the timing was right for the brand as well. “We have been working on developing more sustainable cotton, and we want to play a more active part in developing new sustainable materials,” she says.
Marimekko and Spinnova—and many other brands from the Scandinavian region—have become pioneers in the championing of earth-conscious design. Bonnie Hvillum, a material researcher, founded the Copenhagen-basedafter years of working as a systemic consultant. “I have a master’s in design but started doing systemic work as a way of approaching sustainability and regenerative futures,” she says. “I did a lot of consultancy for companies.
Hvillum began to develop a material made from pine needles—something Denmark has in abundance due to the country’s role in Christmas tree agriculture. “Fifty million trees are grown and cut down in Europe every year,” she says. Hvillum decided to look into possible applications for the seasonal refuse. “It’s a really strong fibre and contains natural oils; it has a lot of additives in it already,” she notes of the needles’ appealing qualities.
The mother of two also highlights that a major contributor to how brands function today, and how some initiatives are more well received by the public than others, is their narrative—like brands using materials from plastic water bottles and marketing them with pictures of barrier reefs and sea creatures in distress. The tale of how trees go from being a part of tradition to being used as a textile is a potent one, and Hvillum’s latest project has this storytelling element in spades.
“It was a really beautiful process,” says Moscall-Varey about collaborating with Hvillum to develop the material, which has a neoprene meets leather-like feel and is biodegradable—and that’s the proverbial tip of the iceberg in terms of this textile’s merits. “I started looking into what charcoal is,” says Hvillum, who mined academic papers with Moscall-Varey for hints about what else the ingredient could do. “Activated charcoal is used in filtration systems.
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