When chef Cynthia Shanmugalingam visited her family village in Sri Lanka, she fell for its food. Now she’s bringing it to London with a new restaurant, Rambutan, in Borough Market.
We ate Sri Lankan food every day at home, including rice and curry for almost every dinner. I used to hate prawns because they looked like bugs, but my family ate lots of those, along with crab, squid and even shark . My mum curried everything and made good use of the produce here: leeks, beetroot kale, beans, tomatoes. “Oh, I found this thing called asparagus in the market,” she’d say, “so let’s make a curry out of it.”Now, in Sri Lanka, our family village is so full of melancholy.
It was that trip back with my mum, in 2012, when I realised I wanted to bring this cuisine to London with, my restaurant. That was the first time that I cooked with her in the village, where you can buy your crab from some dude who just got it from fishermen off a boat, pick your curry leaves from the garden, your coconut milk from a coconut in the garden, moringa leaves from the tree, spices from the mill in the village – so fresh, so delicious and so simple.
Mine is an insider-outsider’s take on Sri Lanka and our food. I do a version of a katsu sando with delicious coconut sambol and dosas – fermented pancakes – with grains such as corn and other seasonal variations. I want to cook food that is reflective of the fact that I come from two places: I’m caught between two worlds, a hybrid of the UK and Sri Lanka.
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