Designer Anya Hindmarch’s Ice Cream Project — inspired by her new accessory collection — has actually thought about making condiment cones tasty
.” Savoury ice cream is far from new; the aggressive agrodolce contrast of balsamic vinegar on strawberry and the tingling ingenuity of chilli crisp on vanilla are well documented. There’s Bird’s custard; Lyle’s golden syrup, and even Kellogg’s Frosties. There’s a Polo flavour, that has had enough brain cells dedicated to its creation that the maker realised a sorbet would be more faithful to its bracingly hoarse character than an ice cream would.
And then the savoury flavours don’t come from the lazy Heinz school either. A soy sauce ice cream ripples Kikkoman through a sesame base, creating a nutty, umami contrast. The mayonnaise rendition doesn’t try and overdo it, instead focussing on the brightness of lemon and vinegar agaisnt a rich base. And Lea and Perrins goes full Bloody Mary, making a tomato sorbet just aggressed by the honk of fermented anchovy and tamarind. Yes, the baked bean flavour is beyond all hope.
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