Trevor Moran's Locust is playing by its own rules.
The day of my visit, ABBA played the entire service, but more often it’s punk or death metal. “‘Rum Sodomy & the Lash’ gets played four times a day,” says Moran of The Pogues’ 1985 album. “It’s pretty rough, but it gets the energy up in the dining room.”“I decided that we would just sort of let it become whatever it wants it to be,” says the Irish chef who leftAfter Catbird Seat, Moran took a four-year break from restaurants.
Broadly, Moran says he’s focused on classical cooking, seafood, precise sauce work and hospitality where everyone—couples on a first date and his chef peers—get “treated like a Michelin inspector.” Beyond that, there’s no pinning Locust down. “The techniques come from everywhere, and they were learned over 20 years of cooking,” says Moran. “I don’t know what to call the style, except I’m cooking for Earth people. It’s food from Earth.
In his early days as a cook at Noma, Moran tried the restaurant’s beef tartare with tarragon and sorrel. “I remember eating it and being like, ‘This is definitely the best thing I’ve ever eaten,” he says. The team works hard to source obscure and specialty seafood, mostly from the States, and then they treat it gently. The “tuna ham crisp” is an ambiguous-sounding sleeper hit for which cooks layer sheets of smoked and raw tuna onto carta di musica with a punch of horseradish. Market shellfish might include West Coast oysters, East Coast scallops, razor clams, or gooseneck barnacles. They recently brought in the country’s only Pacific flounder harvested with the Japanese ikejime method.
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