Thomas Keller's TAK room in NYC has closed, but it shouldn't have opened in the first place (Via EaterNY)
The economic consequences are tragic: Scores of hardworking people are losing their livelihoods during a time when there are far more restaurant workers than restaurant jobs. But culturally speaking, there’s not much to mourn. New York won’t suffer from the loss of a bland, plutocratic restaurant that failed to have any real impact on the city’s culinary scene.
This wasn’t the first time Keller transferred a concept from elsewhere to New York. When he opened Per Se in 2004, he reimagined his Napa Valley flagship, the French Laundry, for an East Coast audience. That venue wasn’t so much a replica, however, as it was a template for broadening the scope of high-end dining in the city.
TAK Room, by contrast, was just a clone, seemingly the second in what felt like a growing chain, another fancy chophouse in a city overrun with chophouses. What distinguished its fare wasn’t refinement — I remember sludgy fettuccine Alfredo and supermarket-quality rib-eye — but rather extraordinary prices.
A more generous critic might wonder what TAK Room could have become and how it could have improved with time. The question I prefer to ask however, is what this sprawling 200-plus-seat space could have been used for in the first place.
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