The power the title implies has been a cover for bad behavior for far too long — and Reem Assil doesn’t want any part of it
The show made a point to frame Erales as the first Mexican-American chef to win the title, and it left me unsettled. Does this kind of representation matter? Erales, after all, is white-passing and English-speaking, and has had access to privileges that many on my team may never get, including a culinary school education and the chance to work at some of the most prestigious restaurants in the world.
In reality, calling me “chef” mostly serves to propagate the American dream myth that with hard work and a compelling vision, anyone can make it to the top. That narrative reinforces the very system my being hailed a “chef” is meant to disrupt. The mantle of chef is also a setup, particularly for those not traditionally in those positions of power like myself. When the media suddenly started to refer to me as a chef after I opened my first restaurant Reem’s California, I felt an incredible sense of pressure to know everything about the kitchen to prove my legitimacy, especially to my peers in the industry who never assumed I was a chef in the first place.
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