'The fine dining world is way too f—king pretentious and weird and unnecessary. I want to change what fine dining means.'
vulgar“The fine dining world is way too f—king pretentious and weird and unnecessary. I want to change what fine dining means,” 25-year-old owner Imana told me on a recent Tuesday as we soaked up the sun at a cafe just down the street from the new digs. Hi Felicia is an expansion of her wildly popular Hi Felicia Supper Club, a questionably legal to-go restaurant she started out of her apartment in January 2021.
In the lead-up to the opening, Imana has been working to build a crew that actually reflects the diversity of people in the real world, especially in management positions. Too many times, she told me, she’s walked into the kitchen of a fine dining restaurant and seen that the only Black person there is a line cook, or the only Latino people are dishwashers.
Caviar sope with roasted red pepper, creme fraiche and cured bergamot at Hi Felicia Supper Club in Oakland, CA, on April 3.Ultimately, Imana’s goal is to build a place where people can actually have fun and be themselves . After we met up, I DM’d her on Instagram to ask how she felt about starting a fine dining restaurant in one of the fastest-gentrifying cities in the country. “Oh I don’t care about that,” she responded, hardly one to mince words. “Oakland is already completely gentrified.
One respite from a hard upbringing was exploring and devouring all the vast Mexican food options Los Angeles had to offer, especially on the cheap. These fond memories were some of the first that developed Imana’s interest in food. The interior of Hi Felicia Supper Club, in Oakland, CA, on April 3, 2022. The restaurant is slated to open on April 24.
Once she got here, she applied for a front-of-house position at Coi, the recently shuttered California-French restaurant that was once a crown jewel in the Bay Area restaurant scene. She had no experience in fine dining, but she managed to act the part well enough to get the job — including calling the restaurant and listening to the voicemail to make sure she could pronounce the name.
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