After ten bibulous years in the business, a pair of oenophile restaurateurs open a third location
On the rainy Friday morning when I sit down with magazine-publishers-cum-restaurateurs-cum-shop-owners-cum-import-export-businessmen-cum-wine-consultants Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew, they are affably fielding what most people might view as a medium-level catastrophe.
It’s an administrative hiccup they take in their stride, with unruffled shrugs. “Hospitality!” says Keeling, with a smile. “These things happen, right? Incidents in Soho, the odd pandemic. It’ll be all right.”The Noble Rot story began in 2013 when Keeling, then an A&R man at Island Records, was looking for a way out of the music biz.
Greek Street opened in 2020, on the site of the legendary Soho restaurant The Gay Hussar, immediately scoring rapturous reviews , then weathered a pandemic-enforced closure before bouncing back strong. Both restaurants have cemented themselves — like London landmarks St John and Quo Vadis — as places that seem to twinkle, pockets of refuge somehow exempt from the regular laws of time and space, where people go to be relaxed, and amused, and happy.
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