Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton show why we prize fashion that reflects our own image.
Miuccia Prada unveiled her Fall 2023 collection in Paris on Tuesday afternoon, and women around the world had one thing to say about it on social media:The clothes were a mix of weirdo-luxurious takes on blue collar workwear, like dud-brown leather hoodies and thick cottony Carhartt-like jackets, and a fetishized vision of middle management clothes peddled in J. Crew and Banana Republic catalogs of yore, like sweater sets and polka dot slip skirts.
The whole thing was like an electric shock straight to women’s nervous systems. The models’ slightly frazzled hair, achieved backstage by, felt like a perfect encapsulation of our fried energy, the difficulty of finding balance between our work and our needs, the impossibility of stopping for even a second.
In fashion, the runway is a kind of sacred space of validation. I thought about that a lot this season as I noticed that several designers, from Rick Owens to Saint Laurent to Miu Miu, brought back the platform runway that not long ago was considered passe. Better to show clothes on the ground, like the model is a woman passing you on the street, the thinking went.
Rather than sailor stripes and little leather jackets and ballet flats, the clothes were somehow at once crazy and conceptual, and completely realistic, like snapshots of Ghesquiere’s inner circle rendered by the fastest whirring machine of fashion.
Their precision almost seemed like commentary on collections that try to encapsulate a culture’s style—how we attempt to make something ineffable feel precise and defined, and how quickly that slips out of our fingertips or gets interrupted by the noise of life.
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