“Everyone who cares about restaurants laments that these stories don’t get told. I am proof that these stories exist. Why is it so hard to get anyone to listen?”
Photo: Imagno/Getty Images Anyone who has worked even one shift on the hot line or waiting tables can tell you that the phrases “hospitality” and “customer service” are some of the delicate ways the restaurant industry masks ingrained sexism and long-standing gender imbalances. I myself have been at bars after a long night with line cooks who jokingly make sexual innuendos or crude comments about female anatomy and have regrettably turned a blind eye despite much internal discomfort.
One response from food journalists was that restaurant employees simply aren’t willing to speak out and share their stories, making it difficult for journalists to bring them to light. And it’s true that many hourly employees wouldn’t dare risk divulging information to writers or reporters for fear of losing what is already in many cases a very unstable job.
In my time working at one New York City restaurant, I assisted a female server in filing a formal sexual-harassment complaint. During a busy weekend night when dropping off dirty plates at the dish pit, a member of the kitchen staff had verbally accosted her in Spanish, a language she does not speak. She apologized for any misunderstanding, and in response he smiled and kissed her on the neck. It wasn’t until after we were alone in the empty dining room that she told me what had happened.
I began sending pitches and proposing stories that highlighted not only this incident but also the entire system and mindset it exposes. In a response from one editor, I was told that it is simply too difficult to corroborate and report on every allegation of toxic workplace culture that comes their way. While I understand the difficulty and legal ramifications in publishing specific harassment allegations, my story requires no such corroboration.
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