Creative director Sabato De Sarno let go of the madcap, maximalist look synonymous with Gucci's former designer, Alessandro Michele.
Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images
On September 22, the new Gucci look was born. Sabato De Sarno debuted his first full spring 2024 collection for the Italian house since his appointment in January 2023 from inside a red room that faded to black when the lights went down. The young, waifish models walked in a pathway of light on the runway, their every step illuminated.
De Sarno—who worked behind the scenes at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana before joining Valentino for 13 years—let go of the madcap, maximalist look associated with former creative director Alessandro Michele. The designer opened the show with a series of looks that zeroed in on everyday essentials and a new kind of super-minimal suiting.
Embossed monogram shift dresses, oversize tailored vests worn unbuttoned, glittering crystal bras, and monogram baggy dresses and matching bags also dominated the collection, which De Sarno named “Ancora.” Most important to the new Gucci were the blazers and suits styled with no shirts underneath—they gave the more everyday pieces a bit of editorial flair.
If this collection is any indication, accessories will still be at the forefront of the brand, as each model carried a bag—many of them also wore chunky gold jewelry and sunglasses here and there. Referential twists on Gucci signatures were all over the spotlit runway. De Sarno is well on his way to developing his own house codes.
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