What it’s like cooking at home with Earth mother Alice Waters (Via EaterSF)
Alice Waters, that larger-than-life figure often credited with pioneering farm-to-table cooking, has now reached an esteemed 76 years of age. Chez Panisse, the groundbreaking restaurant which she founded in Berkeley during the 70s, when she was in her late twenties, is nearing its own 50 year anniversary. Despite some, it’s hard to overstate the stature of this restaurant and personality in the canon of Californian cuisine.
And yet, someone’s got a hot take — her daughter. Fanny Singer, Waters’ only child, just released a memoir titled. It’s a wildly indulgent account from an adoring daughter, and yet, longtime fans of the restaurant may find a fresh and fascinating look at Waters as a Berkeley earth mother. Singer is a singular narrator. Now in her thirties, she has a graduate degree in pop art and is the co-founder of a lifestyle brand selling clothing and accessories. She worked a few summers at the restaurant and clearly is a voracious eater and home cook, but of course, her major qualification to write the book is her famous mother. Anyone meeting Singer at a cocktail party would pepper her with questions.
The book unfolds as a series of impressions. It’s rapturous at times: She describes her mother’s favorite color , her hands , and in great detail, her routine for taking a bath. Apparently, when Singer was little, mother, father, and daughter would all three share an oversized antique tub. Vignettes veer from thoughts on simple green salads and perfectly ripe fruit to summers in the south of France.
This book might satisfy longtime fans who are looking for fresh tidbits on Waters. And it might appeal to a younger generation of aesthetes who, like Singer, are into “beauty and purity and taste,” and also good breakfasts and dinner parties. It’s hard to imagine going on book tour with your mother or even wearing matching Breton striped tees, not on accident, while sunbathing side by side on the lawn. Well, okay. Maybe if your mother is Alice Waters.
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