More than 90% of the fresh corn for sale in the U.S. now consists of modern hybrids that are far sweeter than corn ever used to be. Recipes need to change accordingly, writes Bee Wilson.
Few summer treats feel quite as timeless as a whole, sweet corn on the cob. It seems to belong to an older, simpler way of eating, in which no cutlery is required . You slowly rotate the cob in your hands and use your teeth to extract every sweet yellow morsel. Maize eating in Mexico goes back more than 7,000 years.
It is an illusion, however, to imagine that corn on the cob is something eternal and unchanging. Farmers market corn may look remarkably similar to the corn of the Aztecs , but more than 90% of the fresh corn for sale in the U.S. now consists of modern hybrids that are far sweeter than corn ever used to be. In 1950, Dr. J.R.
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