Foreign yachts are stuck on dry land, returning the Riviera to the French
a craggy peak on the Mediterranean coast, La Ciotat has served as a harbour for local fishermen since the 15th century. Today, the port is better known for a different sort of seafarer. One in seven of the world’s superyachts over 50 metres long—equivalent to the height of the Arc de Triomphe—passes through La Ciotat Shipyards at some point each year. With 300 berths in its dry dock, the yard carries out roughly a tenth of the refit and repair of all the big yachts in the world.
Confinement has crushed tourism in France. In a normal year nearly 90m foreigners come to admire its chateaux, museums, vineyards and beaches, making France the world’s top international tourist destination, ahead of Spain. In April, with planes grounded and borders largely closed, the number of German, Italian and Spanish visitors to France fell by 99% on the previous year. For nearly three months, hotels and restaurants were shuttered.
Just along the coast from La Ciotat, the colourful harbour of Cassis on a post-confinement weekend is nonetheless thronging—with French people. A queue at the ice-cream parlour stretches down the street. Beachgoers form another as they wait for masked policemen to hand out orange flags, which they use to mark an occupied socially distanced space on the sand. The marina is full. Almost every table in harbour-front restaurants is taken. Pastis andBusiness looks brisk.
This point is crucial for the French Med. Local tourism, however welcome, cannot replace the foreign variety. A French tourist on the Riviera spends an average of €58 a day. Russians, Americans and Middle Easterners splurge nearly three times as much. In preparation for an expected easing on July 1st ofrules for travel, the region is launching marketing campaigns to remind people of its charms and to reassure them about covid-19.
In the meantime locals are getting a hint of what the south of France must have felt like in the 1950s, when St Tropez was still a fishing village. Few cars with foreign number plates are to be seen on the roads. Of the French who plan a holiday this summer, 71% told a poll they intend to stay in France. Locals may secretly rather like having their beaches and restaurants to themselves.
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