A speck in the Atlantic, Madeira is a roller coaster of rugged cities, microclimates, and mind-boggling wines
Presiding over our tasting in a pressed striped shirt, hair combed neatly across his forehead, and with an intriguing cobalt blue ring on his right pinkie finger, D'Oliveira speaks calmly and with authority.
This game goes on for four rounds, starting with sercial, the lightest and driest style of madeira. We make our way along the sweetness spectrum, moving to medium-dry verdelho, then medium-sweet bual, ending with malvasia on the darker, more confectionery side. Each flight offers bottles older than the last. The oldest we taste, 1907, was born four years before my grandmother. But it’s the verdelhos—1994, 1973, 1932, and 1912—that have my attention.
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