Creativity and careful presentation make the menu at Southwood Kitchen.
When the pork rinds hit the table, they’re still cracking and popping like the world’s biggest, hottest Rice Krispies. When they hit your mouth they’re about that light, too, so crisp they almost melt on your tongue.
He’s not bragging. It’s just a fair warning. Southwood Kitchen is not a big place and it’s in demand, so you don’t want to take a walk-up availability for granted – even if it’s not Friday. Fortunately, there’s a workaround: They don’t take reservations at the adjacent Southbar, run by partner Tracy Lynn Ong, which doesn’t allow children and which has a more casual bar vibe but the same menu.
He was a still a kid, but he was picking up on different aspects of the business. The menu at Ruby Tuesday didn’t necessarily seem like the be-all and end-all, but their systems for doing business were impressive. He became a trainer for a while, helping new restaurants get up and running. His dad suggested he give culinary school a shot and he did, at Paul Smith’s College in upstate New York.
In between such ventures, in places such as Jackson Hole, Wyo., he’d come back to short-term jobs in coastal Alabama. One of these landed him at Jesse’s in Magnolia Springs, not far from where he’d grown up. He stopped roving as a four-month consulting job turned into six years. Leaving Jesse’s wasn’t an easy choice, he said, but the opportunity to open Southwood Kitchen was a chance to go his own way.
As his earlier remark indicates, there’s no longer a burger on the dinner menu. You won’t miss it. The short slate presents a balance of “scale & shells” and “feathers & feet.” in a nod to Matthews’ backcountry-chef days, elk is always on the menu. You might find Durham Ranch elk tenderloin seared with Aleppo pepper and dressed with pickled garlic chimichurri, black garlic lacquer and shiitake spinach risotto, but that’s not written in stone.
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