Advice: Discover custard doughnuts, eggy sponge cake and layers of coffee-soaked biscuits in Lisbon and Porto
Portuguese sugar production — first on the island region of Madeira, then in the former colony of Brazil — generated so much wealth it was called “white gold.”
Translated as “Berlin balls,” bola-de-Berlim were brought to Portugal by German Jews who used to go to the beaches near Lisbon. They are one of the few Portuguese sweets to be fried and not baked. Locals say the aftertaste of salt after a dip in the sea balances out the pastry’s sweetness. “We sell 40,000 to 50,000 Jesuits a month,” says Alda Moura, the third generation of his family to run the business.
The 16th-century delicacy comes from the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Natividade, in the small village of Tentúgal, about 120 miles from Lisbon. “There are versions in which the amount of flour is 10 times smaller than that of sugar, which makes the dough very light,” Nogueiro Gomes says.
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